A customer recently brought us an unusual pearl necklace that was purchased in Japan about 30 years ago.
It looks simple. One pearl sits on a very fine platinum snake chain. But once we started looking into replacing the chain, the job became a lot more interesting.
The original chain was marked Pt850, which is 85% platinum. Most of the platinum jewelry and chain we work with here in the US is Pt950, or 95% platinum. We could source a new Pt950 snake chain, but it wasn't an exact replacement for what was there.
That left us with a few questions. Would the new chain fit through the existing pearl? Could we preserve the original hardware? Would modifying the old components create a weak point? And at what point does it make more sense to replace something rather than keep adapting a 30-year-old part?
This is the kind of repair we like documenting because there isn't a standard answer. A lot of jewelry repair is figuring out the job before you ever sit down to actually do it.
What Does Pt850 Mean?
The "850" in Pt850 means the metal is 85% platinum. Pt950 is 95% platinum.
You see Pt850 fairly often in older Japanese platinum jewelry, particularly chains. Here in the US, Pt950 is much more familiar.
The difference sounds minor, but you can't look at two platinum parts, see that they're both white and assume they're interchangeable.
The remaining alloy matters too. Different platinum alloys can have different working characteristics, and GIA recommends identifying compatible platinum alloys when doing alterations.
For this necklace, though, metallurgy was only part of the problem. The physical dimensions of the new chain mattered just as much.
The Pearl Has to Fit Over the Chain
This is where a repair that sounds simple can get annoying very quickly.
The pearl is drilled all the way through and the chain runs directly through it. So we can't just pick a platinum chain that looks close to the original. It actually has to fit through the existing hole.
Jewelry dimensions at this scale are very unforgiving. A difference of a fraction of a millimeter can be enough to turn a chain that should work on paper into one that doesn't fit.
There are a few measurements we need to consider:
- Diameter of the original chain
- Diameter of the replacement chain
- Diameter of the hole through the pearl
- Size of the chain ends and fittings
- Dimensions of the original clasp and hardware
The chain itself fitting through the pearl doesn't necessarily solve the problem either. The end fitting may be larger than the chain.
That's why we measure the actual piece before ordering expensive platinum components whenever possible.
Can You Make the Hole in a Pearl Larger?
Sometimes.
It depends on the pearl, the existing hole and how much additional clearance is actually needed.
Pearls are not handled the same way we would handle a metal bead. The visible surface is nacre, and once material is removed it obviously can't be put back.
A previously drilled pearl can sometimes be carefully opened with the appropriate pearl drilling or reaming tools. If we're talking about a very small adjustment and the pearl is in good condition, that may be perfectly reasonable.
If the new chain would require us to remove considerably more material, we would rather rethink the chain than force the pearl to accommodate it.
On an heirloom piece, preserving the pearl is usually more important than making a particular replacement chain work.
Why Snake Chains Can Be Difficult to Repair
Snake chain is a little deceptive because it looks so simple from the outside.
Unlike ordinary cable chain, you're not looking at a row of individual open links. Its tightly assembled construction is what gives it that smooth appearance and fluid movement.
That also means a damaged section isn't always something we can simply close up and solder like a conventional chain link.
A kink is another issue. Once a snake chain has been badly kinked or crushed, straightening it cosmetically does not necessarily restore its original structure. A repair can also leave a stiff section that doesn't move like the rest of the necklace.
We have to look at where the damage is and decide whether the existing chain is worth repairing or whether replacement is the better long-term option.
There's no benefit in doing a beautiful $150 repair if the chain next to it is worn enough to fail six months later.
Can Pt850 and Pt950 Be Used Together?
Potentially, yes.
But "they're both platinum" isn't enough information to decide how the job should be done.
The location of the connection matters. So does the construction of the part, the alloy, how much stress the connection sees and whether we're joining original and replacement components or fabricating something new.
At our bench, we use an Orion micro TIG welder for a lot of the precision work where localized control is useful. That doesn't mean every platinum repair automatically gets welded. The method follows the job.
Sometimes the best solution is to preserve and modify the original hardware.
Sometimes making a new component is cleaner.
Sometimes we leave the original component alone and change the plan around it.
This is one reason we ask customers not to buy replacement chains or findings before we have looked at an unusual piece. A component being made of the right metal doesn't mean it is the right component.
How Much Does a Platinum Necklace Repair Cost?
The range is wide because "platinum necklace repair" can describe anything from repairing an end connection to replacing most of the necklace.
As a general guide:
| Work | Approximate Cost |
|---|---|
| Minor platinum chain or end repair | $75 - $200 |
| Clasp or end modification | $100 - $300+ |
| Pearl fitting or minor hole adjustment | $50 - $200+ |
| Small custom platinum component | $150 - $500+ |
| More involved heirloom necklace restoration | $300 - $1,000+ |
| Complete platinum chain replacement | Often $1,000+ |
These aren't quotes. They're useful ranges for understanding why we want to see the piece first.
A fine platinum chain can get expensive surprisingly quickly. You're paying for the platinum itself as well as the construction of the chain, and a small change in diameter or length changes the finished weight.
There are also times when the old platinum has enough scrap value to offset part of the project.
What Is Old Pt850 Platinum Worth?
If an original platinum component isn't being reused, we can weigh it and determine how much fine platinum it contains.
The basic math is easy.
A 5 gram Pt850 chain contains:
5 grams x 85% = 4.25 grams of platinum
That doesn't mean a refinery will pay the full spot-market value of 4.25 grams. Refining charges, settlement terms and the amount of metal being processed all affect the actual return.
But platinum isn't something we treat as worthless just because it's being replaced.
On a larger restoration, we discuss whether old precious metal is being reused, returned to the customer or credited toward the work.
Repair It, Replace It or Redesign It?
This is usually the more important conversation.
If the original chain is basically sound and has one repairable problem, we would generally rather preserve it.
If the pearl and original clasp matter but the chain is worn out, keeping those pieces and replacing the chain may make more sense.
And sometimes the inherited piece isn't something the owner is ever going to wear in its original form. In that case, we can use the important parts in an entirely new piece through our Custom Jewelry Design Service.
We see this fairly often with inherited jewelry. The goal doesn't always have to be restoring something to exactly the way it looked before.
Sometimes the pearl is the heirloom.
Sometimes it's the clasp.
Sometimes it's a diamond, an engraving or even just the gold.
Knowing what the customer actually cares about changes how we approach the job.
Older and Imported Jewelry Can Take More Homework
This necklace came from Japan, but the same issue comes up with European jewelry, vintage American pieces and handmade jewelry.
We may open a job and find an alloy we don't normally encounter, a chain size we can't order anymore or a handmade clasp that doesn't correspond to anything in a modern findings catalog.
Previous repairs can complicate things further.
That's when the calipers, microscope and testing equipment come out before the torch or welder does.
We want to know what we're dealing with first.
Bentzion and our bench team will normally look at the metal, wear, previous repairs, measurements and construction before recommending anything substantial. If we don't think a proposed repair will hold up, we'd rather tell the customer that than collect money for a repair we don't trust.
This Is the Part of Jewelry Repair We Find Interesting
Routine repairs are a big part of what we do at Motek Jewelry Design Studio. We size rings, replace stones, rebuild prongs, repair chains and restore worn jewelry every week.
The odd jobs are often the most interesting ones.
A 30-year-old Japanese necklace doesn't necessarily have a replacement part sitting in a catalog. You have to measure it, understand how it was made and work out which pieces are worth preserving.
One customer, Sarah V., described us in her Google review as a "unique store in Rockland county and beyond (no cookie-cutter jobs)."
We liked that description because it is pretty accurate.
If you have an older or unusual piece and aren't sure whether it can be repaired, you can send us photos through our Jewelry Repair Service. For suitable projects, we work with clients throughout the US through secure, fully insured mail-in service.
If you're local, bring it to our showroom on Route 59 in Airmont. We're right by Monsey and work with customers throughout Rockland County. You're also welcome to stop in for a complimentary cleaning and inspection.
Old jewelry doesn't always need to be made new again. Sometimes the better repair is figuring out exactly what shouldn't be changed.
